TB – 05 PRO Sample Production Part 1 This is a Tamiya ‘s new type shaft drive chassis’ TB – 05 PRO’ production movie. Launched on June 23rd, 2018, TAMIYA new shaft drive chassis TB – 05PRO exhibit sample was produced. We introduce the parts composition enclosed in the kit to be released shortly, with animation.
Source: SanoTake YouTube Channel
Source: CAGEMAN ch.
Source: RC Driver
We were never a fan of taking the bus to school when we were a kid. But if our school bus looked like the Tamiya King Yellow 6×6, things may have been different. The King Yellow is a cool looking school bus body on Tamiya’s G6-01 six wheel drive electric platform which is a full build up kit. We’ve already did and unboxing and review of the G6-01 as the Konghead 6×6 so we were looking to do a little something different in this video. That’s when the idea hit us to show you all the upgrades you can do to this fun RC Machine. Plus we decided to bump up the power too and install the 4-wheel steering set-up. Did the hop-ups help? We’ll show you our experience with the Tamiya King Yellow 6×6 and break down the performance with the option parts installed.
Source: RC Driver
Source: Scale Model Aircrafts
Motor and gear
Depending on track type, if it is a:
– Technical with few jumps and etc. (Lots of long straights)
You can use a high speed gear ratio 3:5:1/3:7:1 with speed motors like Atomic Tuned ->Light Dash -> Hyper Dash -> Sprint dash
– Technical track (Tight corners, lots of wave, lots of jump)
Acceleration ratio of 4:1, 4:2:1, 5:1 with torque focus motor like torque tuned. Motors like Hyper dash you can tap on it’s torque by using a bigger ration of 4:1 and etc.
*For pro chassis only 4:1 gear ratio
Many want the fastest Mini 4WD so they use large diameter.
However large diameter is not suitable for tracks with lots of jump.
Since the car height is further from the track.
Large Diameter – High speed courses with only 4:1/4:2:!/5:1 gear supported
(Suitable for tracks with No jumps) *Lots of optional tire
Low profile (New type of tire design) – High speed courses with only 3:5:1/3:7:1 gear supported (Suitable for tracks with few jumps)
*Lots of optional tire
Small Diameter tire – Technical based tire (Found in VS, MS Chassis, Super X/XX car kits) All gear ratio are supported.
*No optional tire
Small Diameter racing slick tires (Early Mini 4WD tires (Found in Super 1 onwards car kits) – All purpose tire depending on gear.
All gear ratio are supported.
*Limited/rare optional tire
For rollers, best to use bearing type of rollers so the machine can zip in track easily. Here is a tip many may not know.
For tracks with lots of jump, if you are using bearing on the wheel shaft.
If the car keeps flying off, it doesn’t always mean putting on more weight. You can remove the bearing on the wheel or just a pair of two ball bearing at either the front or rear.
This will helps to slow down the vehicle thus jumping off the track will be minimize.
Roller and tire size fundamentals are the same
Bigger the tire/roller, it is focus on speed settings and speed track.
Small the tire/roller, it is focus on cornering and technical track.
– Three Point roller setup for older chassis Super 1/2/FM and etc.
Setup no need always be double roller, you can explore three point roller setting.
Meaning on roller in the nose, middle and tail of the chassis.
Only large diameter have many optional tires since this is the widely used tire diameter. Low profile there are optional tires but in some countries there are no soft/hard.
Small diameter and small diameter racing tires wise no optional tire at all
Soft – High grip for high speed tracks, slow on cornering since the tire grips on the track surface very hard
Not suitable for jumps as the tire is bouncy.
Hard – Low grip suitable for technical tracks, fast on corner and speed is not affected. (I recommend using hard than soft tire)
Suitable for jumps as the tire is not bouncy.
Offset tires – Cone shaped type of tires, the tire only have 2mm contact. Very fast on corner and outperform modified tires.
Suitable for tracks with many corners, however speed and stability isn’t’ that great so not ideal for high speed tracks
One way wheel (Rare/Outdated) – All rounder type of tire regardless of tire type whether soft or hard. These are mechanic type of tire.
Speed and corner are very good, since these tires have inner wheel. During corners, the tires will not be drag so the car can corner very easily.
However such tires are not ideal for jumps as the mechanism will get crash after some time of usage.
Reston Sponge (Rare/outdated) – All rounder tire, good grip and easy on corner. Light weight as compare with rubber tires.
Suitable for high speed tires.
Most early Mini 4WD have reston sponge as optional tire.
However not ideal for jumps as the tire is really bouncy.
How to handle jumps
Brakes and jumps are only some methods to handle jumps.
There are other things to take note such as:
– Motor used, if you are using sprint dash for jump.
Try changing to a slower motor
– Gear ratio, try using acceleration ratio of 4:1 and above but no 3:5:! gear for jumps
– Tire, large diameters are not suitable for jumps as the car height is very high. Try changing to small diameter tire.
* Such tires can only be obtained through kits like VS, MS chassis
or Super 1/2 onwards car kits with small diameter car kits
– sponge brakes are great for high speed tracks but not climbs.
For some they use tape on sponge brake so it will not brake on climb.
– Rubber brakes all rounder brake for climbs and speed tracks.
Tip for rubber brakes is make it pointy so it touches the arc of the jump section. *Refer to TAM15198 you will understand what I am talking about.
For damper to work properly and correct the vehicle during jumps.
Recommend to place a damper set in front and one in the rear.
Middle damper even in the early days of Mini 4WD are not effective in anywhere so middle damper only helps to hold down the vehicle than correct the vehicle during jumps.
Take note do not use a pair heavy mass damper as the car will bounce off track during jumps. Mass damper block performs better than standard damper drums but do not use the heavier one.
Take note not all car you can place mass damper block in front.
Let me just share that mass damper is not intended to hold down the vehicle but to correct it.
Refer to the instruction of part TAM15392 you will understand what I am talking about.
Wider the front/rear of the car give more stability as well as cornering.
There are parts like side extension (TAM15230 *Rare, TAM15357).
Basically these are long reach type of FRP, they touch the track wall very closely.
Very suitable for technical tracks and cornering is superb.
However if the track have many tight corners, you might want to explore smaller car width than wide.
Either remove FRP or use FRP with no roller size limitation like 15150/15242. (If the chassis supports it)
Such FRP are from Mini 4WD early days, such FRP are useful since you can put almost any roller size.
If you feel your car is stuck in tight corners, install such FRP than with a smaller roller size like 13mm and smaller.
I use such setting to tackle very tricky courses using chassis like Super 1/TX and VS are a few older chassis that supports such FRP.
Explore sliding damper part and damper grease
FRP is the most popular among all the racers.
Sliding damper part TAM15198/15467.
Tip from me sliding part always put in rear than front.
Most don’t use siding damper as they feel it is slow.
Why is it slow is because the grease included in the part is a soft grease which is meant for low speed.
You need to purchase TAMIYA HG Sliding damper grease 15471.
For high speed use hard, for technical track use soft.
Such part no one have even explore or use.
Sliding damper usually have a aluminium plate which add as weight to hold on the vehicle.
Same concept with some who place weight in the rear.
Don’t worry about jumps, just place a damper in front of the car not the middle and the car can cope with jumps.
Last but not least, try to explore all the optional parts like what I did.
There simply a lot of parts for Mini 4WD other than FRP, metal rollers and etc.
Some rare/older parts are helpful in certain track conditions.
Example TAM15176 which helps Mini 4WD to corner smoothly since the arm slides along the track so the car will not get stuck in corners.
Hope this helps and enjoy.
Mini 4WD tester and collector
Source: hpiguys Workshop YouTube Channel
I focused on the gear ratio this time. We chose three gear ratios: high gear setting, low gear setting and intermediate setting between them. * 5.74: 1 (high gear) Focus on top speed (too much?) * 8.42: 1 (middle) * 11.38: 1 (low gear) Acceleration emphasis (too much!) Make extreme settings It is. It’s easy, it’s up and down and in the middle. With these three settings, the time and the maximum speed of 20 m sprint were measured and compared. The outside air temperature during measurement is about 10 ° C. Changing the gear ratio is like this! What? I think that it became the animation of the basic contents of it. It would be greatly appreciated if you could see it loose. The RC car used is TT – 02B of the same example as usual. I will write down the specifications easily.
【Chassis】 TT – 02B
【Extra Parts & Hopups】 * Rubber seal bearings (OP. 8) make full bearings * Many drive systems are replaced with Tamiya optional parts * Lower arms of front suspension are aluminized (YEAH RACING) * Front hub carriers are aluminum (OP. 793) * Upstream light is aluminized (square) * Rear suspension is lower alarm (Eagle) * Rear upright is aluminumized (OP. 793) * Front and rear damper is DF – 03 aluminum damper (OP. 926)
【Battery】 Tamiya Racing Pack 1600SP
【ESC】 Tamiya TBLE-03S
【Spur Gear】 70T (Normal) Low gear 68T (SP 1500) Middle 64T (SP 1356) High Geared [Pinion Gear] 16T (OP. 354) At low gear 21 T (OP 356) Middle at 29 T (OP. 1229) At high gear
【Gear ratio】 * 5.74: 1 at high gear speed * 8.42: 1 at middle speed * 11.38 : 1 (At low gear)
【Differential gear】 Front: Differential lock (OP. 1649) Rear: Differential lock (OP. 1649)
【Tire】 M2 slick tire 2 set (OP. 224)
The measurement place is asphalt pavement, Sand and pebbles are also scattered. After considering these effects, I intend to compare three kinds of motors relatively, as it is. Chassis specifications (total weight, gear ratio, tire diameter, etc.) are changed for each movie. For that reason, it does not make much sense to directly compare the displayed speed and time with the comparison movies you have already made, so please understand. Although it is a scary movie, thank you. *** External link *** Ameblo CAGEMAN ch.
Source: Andy’s Hobby Headquarters